Questions and Answers:

Q#1. (Jan. 2001) Before I buy a grid-tied PV system, I would like to have some idea as to how much I will save on my electric bill each month.

A#1. (Jan. 2001) This will vary based upon the capacity of the solar array. Differences in system equipment efficiencies between competitive manufactures are slight and shouldn't affect overall production appreciably. The electric bill can be defrayed to whatever extent you wish to invest in your own production system. Pat Osborne, Great Planes Power, 1221 Welch St., Golden, CO, e-mail: gpsolar@home.com

A#1. (Jan. 2001) A $10,000 grid-tied PV system should produce approximately 5KWH/day. At $.085 per kWh a savings of $12.75 per month would be realized. Lief Juell, Alternative Power Enterprises, Inc., P.O. Box 351, Ridgway, CO 81432, e-mail: solman@alternative-power.com

Q#2. (Jan. 2001) I want to buy an off-grid PV system for my weekend/summer cabin. I need information on what batteries to buy, their costs, what maintenance to perform on them, and how to handle them for proper disposal when they need to be replaced.

A#2. (Jan. 2001) Deep cycle lead acid batteries are the best for the application you are considering. The Trojan L-16 6-volt commercial battery would be the choice and would give you an approximate 10-year life if properly maintained. The maintenance routine would be monthly and consists of maintaining the fluid at the proper level with distilled water and tighten all cable connections. An equalization process should take place approximately every 3 months to insure the batteries will perform to their optimum. This process is an "over-charging" to a preset high voltage to bring all battery cells up to the proper specific gravity reading. Many charge controls on the market can do this procedure for you. Disposal of batteries should be an easy process for you. Choose a company that will sell you new batteries and will remove your old ones. Battery companies take the old cores and recycle all of the components. There should be a nominal charge for this service. Pat Bailey, Solar Solutions Ltd., 1 Hermit Lane, POB 554, Silver Cliff, CO 81252, e-mail: solarsol@rmi.net

A#2. (Jan. 2001) CoSEIA member businesses can advise you about all battery issues. They will also help you choose the most appropriate battery for your system. A number of variables can influence battery choices, i.e., peak load, daily load, recharging capacity, and so on. Information regarding what activities the power in the batteries must support will help. Pat Osborne, Great Planes Power, 1221 Welch St., Golden, CO, e-mail: gpsolar@home.com

A#2. (Jan. 2001) With any cabin PV system it makes sense to oversize the battery storage system, because during the periods the cabin is not used, the solar array can charge up a large storage bank. Then on visits, you will have plenty of power, even if it is raining. We recommend the Trojan L16H (390 Amp Hour), 6 Volt battery for life expectancy (10 years), minimal maintenance, and easy availability. These are available for under $200 each. The only maintenance is checking the electrolyte level monthly, and topping off with distilled water. These are the workhorse batteries of the PV industry. Lief Juell, Alternative Power Enterprises, Inc., P.O. Box 351, Ridgway, CO 81432, e-mail: solman@alternative-power.com

Q#3. (Jan. 2001) I presently have a two panel (4'X8') solar domestic hot water heating system that heats the bottom of a 60 gallon electric water heater. This is a single tank system. Can I expand this system to provide some space heating and if so, about how much would I expect to pay?

A#3. (Jan. 2001) Two 4'X8' panels to heat the bottom of a 60 gallon tank is more heating capability than you need for the job. One panel would do the job so you are oversized. But you are under sized to consider much of any space heating. You could add another panel or two, a 120 gallon storage tank, a pump, controls, and a wall heat convector unit and get some space heating from this type of set up. However, some codes will not allow the heating system to be plumbed with the domestic hot water system. So the systems might need to be split which would then add the complexity of a second heat collection loop along with its pump, heat exchanger, expansion tank, controls, etc. You could be looking at prices ranging from $2500 to $5000, or possibly more, depending on how much equipment and bells and whistles are added. Go to the CoSEIA Membership Directory page and contact several of the members in your area to see if they can nail down a more specific price for what you want done. Jon Klima, Conifer Solar Consulting, Conifer CO, e-mail: klima@purplemountain.net

Q#4. (Jan. 2001) I'm building a home about 1/3 mile from the electric utility line and am trying to decide whether to pay the utility $13,000 to extend the line to my house and have a small back-up or grid-tied PV system or to spend a bit more and go completely off-grid. Help please.

A#4. (Jan. 2001) Many people have been confronted with this very situation. Many have chosen to go with renewables. I suggest the first step is to try to identify what your primary goals are. Electrical power can be provided reliability by either means. If cost is the main consideration then a number of projections or assumptions must be made which require electrical load profiling and duration. The 'load' matters will be addressed by thorough analysis is of the renewable system requirements. Duration is tougher. How long will you live in the home? Once you got these two issues clarified a reasonable estimate of costs relative to production can be ascertained. If independence or qualitative issues are important to you then renewables is the only choice. Pat Osborne, Great Planes Power, 1221 Welch St., Golden, CO, e-mail: gpsolar@home.com

A#4. (Jan. 2001) We would recommend going completely off-the -grid. A PV system costing between $15-20,000 will power a home using energy efficient lighting and appliances. You would spend more on extending the power line to your home and installing a PV system. There is a minimum monthly service charge of around $10 per month from the power company as well. Beyond the cost, you would have the satisfaction of producing your own independent power using renewable energy. Lief Juell, Alternative Power Enterprises, Inc., P.O. Box 351, Ridgway, CO 81432, e-mail: solman@alternative-power.com

Q#5. (Jan. 2001) I've had a solar drain back hot water heating system for about 15 years and it has worked well. The panels recently experienced some freeze damage due to the drain back tank being overfilled (a dumb mistake I made). Is it worth the expense (about $900) to get the panels repaired or should I just have the system torn out?

A#5. (Jan. 2001) Call your home insurance company. Most of them will cover the cost of replacing the panels. They usually want a professional to come out and say what happened. I generally tell them that it was the homeowner's fault, and they cover. Typically, it is a good practice to include fixing the tank so it can't be overfilled and that will have to be paid for by the homeowner (small cost). If you don't have insurance, it can be quite expensive to replace your panels. Used panels are available for about half the price of new ones and I will always tell a customer that it is worth it to spend the money on the solar, especially in these times of uncertain energy prices. In my opinion, it is hard to argue against something that pays for itself. Daimon Vilppu, Industrial Solar Technology Corp., 4420 McIntyre St. Golden, CO 80403, phone 303 279-8108, e-mail: industrailsolar@qwest.net

Q#6. (Jan. 2001) What type of financial incentives are available to help pay for a PV system and where might I obtain loan information for the same?

A#6. (Jan. 2001) Colorado has a few selective incentive or mitigation measures. It will be best to discuss this matter with the company you are working with for your system. Colorado's banking industry has become friendly toward renewable energy system loans. Many of the small lending institutions in our state have made solar loans for years. I suggest inquiring with your local banking institution. The CoSEIA office can supply a list of lenders who have interest in renewable energy lending. Remember that regardless of the purpose of a loan, determining credit worthiness is always the forte of the lender. Pat Osborne, Great Planes Power, 1221 Welch St., Golden, CO, e-mail: gpsolar@home.com

A#6. (Jan. 2001) The National Database of State Incentives for Renewable Energy is located at www.eren.doe.gov/redirects/millionroofs.html. This site is designed to contain all available information on state financial and regulatory incentives. This site also includes information on the two federal incentive programs for solar energy on commercial property. Residential mortgages that include money for the addition of solar energy systems are available through the Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD), Department of Veterans Affairs (VA) and the Federal National Mortgage Association (FannieMae). Darrin Primm - Sales Coordinator, Alternate Energy Group, Hutton Communications, Inc., primmd@huttonsolar.com

Q#7. (Jan. 2001) How much electricity could I expect a grid-tied PV system costing about $10,000 to produce?

A#7. (Jan. 2001) About 800 to 1200 watts. It will vary based on the exact type of grid tie system. A system with battery storage will produce less when viewed from your perspective because an investment will have been made in storage. Pat Osborne, Great Planes Power, 1221 Welch St., Golden, CO, e-mail: gpsolar@home.com

A#7. (Jan. 2001) A $10,000 Grid-Tied PV system would produce approximately 5 kWh per day with 6 hours of sun. Lief Juell, Alternative Power Enterprises, Inc., P.O. Box 351, Ridgway, CO 81432, e-mail: solman@alternative-power.com

Q#8. (Jan. 2001) With the cost of natural gas sky rocketing lately, I am considering installing a solar system to heat my water. I have a south-facing roof but don't think my homeowners association would allow the eyesore of panels standing up on the roof. Can anything be done to help me out?

A#8. (Jan. 2001) The first thing to do is find out if skylights are allowed in your covenants. If they are, you can ask the covenant committee about solar and how it is "slightly" larger. Since you have a south-facing roof, we can definitely flush mount the panels, which will resemble skylights. For a domestic hot water Solar Heating system, you will lose less than ten-percent efficiency even if your panels are way off the proper angle. Daimon Vilppu, Industrial Solar Technology Corp., 4420 McIntyre St. Golden, CO 80403, phone 303 279-8108, e-mail: industrailsolar@qwest.net

Q#9. (Jan. 2001) I have a problem with the solar panels installed on the roof....21 years ago. They are part of an air system, HelioThermics Air System, out of N. Carolina, manufactured in the early 80's..and replacements are difficult to find. We have a product called "Glasteel" presently installed, which is no longer available. This is an air system, storing air from the attic under the house in a "rock box", which is used to heat house as needed. It also will heat water in a storage tank to about 90 degrees before entering the electric tank. Any info will help...thanks. g.j.

A#9. (Jan. 2001) The air modules you describe require a motorized fan that, with the cost of electricity from the grid factored in, will cost more than the heat captured, reclaimed and utilized. I have had occasion to repair some of these systems for homeowners and invariably receive a call afterwards thanking me for fixing the problem but noting that their electric bill had jumped upward as a result. I suggest replacing the air-panel system with a closed loop thermal system that will outperform the existing system even if it was working properly. Also consider incorporating some passive design modifications to the home as well. Kerry Kalarney, Sundance Solar Designs, P.O. Box 321, Placerville, CO 81430, Ph. 970-252-1978, e-mail: solar@rmi.net

Q#10. (Feb. 2001) I live in PA and have a 22 year old hot air solar heating system with 13 panels incorporated in my roof. The panels are 2' wide and 12' long and have the normal black collector with glass glazing. On top of the glazing was 1 piece of fiberglass to protect the glass and prevent rain from entering as the glass glazing is in sections. The outer fiberglass panels turned yellow and were replace by Dupont Tefzel plastic about 6 years ago. I again had to replace the Tefzel on the panels 2 years ago. I now have a large tear in the Tefzel on one panel and really NEED SOME HELP. I have been talking, searching, and calling solar places to find a product, such as the fiberglass, which I can use on my panels to protect the glass. I am at the end of the line with this as I have small leaks in the Tefzel which I cannot find and it is ruining my ceiling, not to mention the roof trusses. My next alternative is to completely cover the panels with a roof which is something I do not which to do. I truly hope I receive a reply from someone who can direct me to a person who can sell me a product which will solve my problem. E.L., Saylorsburg, PA, e-mail: jmrec@ptd.net

A#10. (Feb. 2001) Ed, you need to look into the product "Lexan". It is what I use as a replacement glazing. Get the Thermoclear product, it is a polycarbonate that should give you 7-10 years of clearness. I've had good luck with it at elevation here in Colorado. Get the twin wall product, although I am not sure how thick your system can accept. It comes in sheets usually 2-4 feet wide and up to 15 feet long. Call me if you need any more help. Good luck. Mike Tierney, Aspen Solar Systems, P.O. Box 2391, Aspen, CO 81612, Ph. 970 925-3659, e-mail: mike@aspensolar.com

A#10. (Feb. 2001) I like Mike's response a lot, but two things to add:
1. Any plastic material used should be UV protected. Lexan is great, tough stuff and there is some UV protected Lexan - very hard to find. I would suggest Ed contact DuPont or Dow Chemical directly for some technical assistance there.
2. I have some samples of some polycarbonate sheets that are rectangular tubes in sheet form, either one or two layers of tubes. Problem with these is that the layers with air in the tubes inhibit solar transmission into the collector, so thinner is better. Again, UV inhibition is available but hard to find. Try to find Solar Grade "Polygal" from Co-Ex Corp. Last contact # I have is (800)888-5364 or (203)888-7875. My info is over 5 years old but worth a shot. I used to deal with AIA Plastics in Denver at (303)296-9696 (but don't know about their current status). Thom W. Johnson, RAD Energy Systems, 2922 So. Depew St., Denver, CO 80227, Ph. (303)489-2774, FAX: (303)763-4822

A#10. (Feb. 2001) Ed, Another product to check out is Macrolux. It is also a polycarbonate. It has a full 10 year non prorated warranty including light transmission. We carry the product at Rocky Mountain Solar, Ph. 877-452-1469, e-mail: rms@dim.com.

A#10. (Feb. 2001) How about 1/4" Lexan sheets from a plastic supply store cut to fit? jwoodink@aol.com

A#10. (Feb. 2001) Go to the AAA Solar web site at www.aaasolar.com. They have both Filon and Lexan. Jon Klima, Conifer Solar Consulting, Conifer CO, e-mail: klima@purplemountain.net

Q#11. (Feb. 2001) Does it make sense to use a central demand water heater (such as Aquastar) with a solar water heating system? JS, E-mail: judyschaefer@attglobal.net

A#11. (Feb. 2001) I don't know about the question but I can offer that the Aquastar heater drops the pressure about 30 pounds as water moves through it. I always advise against the Aquastar for off grid homes. The high drop in water pressure will cause the pressure pumps to cycle needlessly. The Paloma brand demand heater drops pressure by less than 5 pounds. Pat Osborne, Great Planes Power, 1221 Welch St., Golden, CO, e-mail: gpsolar@home.com

Q#12. (March 2001) I need to replace my roof and have been considering using a PV system to do so. I have heard about roofing materials that include PV capabilities. Where can I find out about these materials? What are their square foot costs? What kind of energy production can be expected (on a square foot basis)? I recognize that this question is dependent on the slope of the roof and its orientation (I have a large surface area but with a shallow slope, half facing south and half facing north). What kinds of roofs are these materials likely to be useful in covering? How do they compare with standard roofing materials with respect to longevity, weather (snow, rain, hail, wind, etc.) protection and cost of installation? If I mix PV materials with standard materials, what standard materials are best integrated with the PV materials? JCCheronis@cs.com

A#12. (March 2001) Although I'm not qualified to answer your questions, I can direct you to a web site where you can probably find the answers you are seeking. Try www.unitedsolar.com. They make PV roofing materials. Jon Klima, Conifer Solar Consulting, Conifer CO, e-mail: klima@purplemountain.net

A#12. (January 2002) J.C., the product referred to by UniSolar is a galvalume standing seam roof
product that is now, finally, UL listed and available to the public. Installed cost will be around $8 to $11/watt depending on roof, site conditions etc. they are available in varying lengths. The alternative is to integrate existing module products into the roof itself and formulate the design material around it. Call us if you are still looking and we'll give you a hand. Kerry T. Kalarney/Sundance Solar Designs, e-mail: solar@rmi.net, 970-252-1978 voice and fax

Q#13. (March 2001) I have 2 story house in Aurora with a south facing roof. I am considering installing a solar hot water system. Realizing that I will only save about $20/month, how much (roughly) would it cost to install one with the panels flush with the roof? How would the pipes run from the roof to the basement? What kind of annual maintenance would I have to do? stephen@sjackson-dba.com

A#13. (April 2001) For a family of four, it would cost about $3500 - $4000 for all new equipment. If you went with used panels, you could probably get it done for $500 - $1000 less. Some of the local installers have plenty of good used panels. Costs to place the panels on the roof will vary, depending upon the roof pitch. A steep pitch would require renting a boom truck whereas a shallow pitch mount can be done much easier and without a boom truck. Pipes can usually be run from the roof into an attic and then down through closets, inside walls, and/or cupboard areas. Annual maintenance is none to minimal. On mine, I just watch what the water temperatures are in the morning and evening, usually on a daily basis. If the sun has been shining the temperatures show the system has been collecting heat. If the temperatures are not up to where they normally should be, then there is a problem. In about 21 1/2 years of operation, my domestic hot water system has had problems about 2 or 3 times and I was able to catch them within a day or two.
It is often hard to justify a solar system solely on a economic basis for a person whose water is heated by natural gas. However, an economic pay back is much quicker if the water is heated by electricity. But then one can ask what is the economic pay back of a new automobile? And they require regular feeding of gas and a lot of periodic maintenance. A lot of people will get into solar for the environmental reasons, i.e., using a technology that saves dumping pounds to tons of combustion products into the air. Hope this helps a bit. Jon Klima, Conifer Solar Consulting, Conifer CO, e-mail: klima@purplemountain.net

Q#14. (April 2001) I am presently researching a PV-Wind/Hybrid system with a propane generator as backup for an off the grid retirement home in the foothills around La Garita, CO. I am initially budgeting about $25k for such a system to generate 12-17 kWh per day. However, I need a local expert/vendor for guidance on whether wind is viable, trade off solar trackers, site survey, installations, battery disposal/change out, general system design issues and especially how to handle domestic well water supply options with solar or inverted 240V. Any reputable experts in the San Luis Valley? ccain1@qwest.net

A#14. (April 2001) The hybrid power generation system you've asked about is very common. It is practical and reliable as long the system is designed with favor toward the PV component. For the most part our Colorado wind is not as good a energy resource as it seems. We get strong intermittent wind but lack that constant breeze that makes other areas of the nation especially good wind energy producers. Eastern Colorado is a better wind resource area than the spot you're building. My suggestion is that a reasonable method for allocating your investment for power is to rely on the PV portion for 65 to 75% of your requirement.

A back up generator is almost always employed and I encourage you to follow through with this notion. We break generators in two categories, air cooled or liquid cooled. Our experience shows with the air cooled engines running LP can begin to suffer performance problems after 750 hours of operation. Combustion temperatures coupled with the inherent lack of lubricating properties in LP seem to contribute to valve failures (loss of compression). Of course the air cooled engines can give excellent service and engine troubles do seem to vary between manufactures. Here is a good example of getting what you pay for. Another issue to consider is close review of manufactures guaranties for generators. You'll find that there are many exceptions to the boasts posted on product advertisements. Liquid cooled engines are the choice for standby generators. The expected hours of operations without engine complications are in some cases ten times that of air cooled. Of course the price difference between the two categories are quite appreciable.

Another matter that is often overlooked is whether or not the generator you buy can be started remotely or perhaps by the balance of system PV/Wind system. We encourage a thorough review of this matter before making a decision. Retrofitting and or modifying ignition systems of generators built without simple remote starting features is sometimes more expensive and less dependable than buying something with that design feature.

The batteries commonly used for a system, like your considering, are not a problem. In the US there is and has been a steady demand for old batteries for recycling. Any reputable firm involved in the battery business is going to routinely accept batteries which in turn are forwarded for recycling back into new batteries. Most wet cell battery in the US are recycled. A wet cell battery is what we recommend for your system.

We do not encourage the use of trackers nor do we offer them. There are advocates of these devices but we do not accept the rationale offered for using them. Our belief is that the less complicated a power system is the better reliability will be. The claims made by tracker builders are not false but do fail to acknowledge some of the mitigating factors that influence the overall performance of the devices.

The water well or pumping question is easy to answer. Have the local well driller and pump installer put a standard issue pump in. A 110 VAC pump could be suitable and is used if water table levels permit (usually water no deeper than 150 foot static level). Otherwise a 240 VAC pump is used. Always insist upon a pump with a 'Franklin Electric' motor installed on the pump (installed on more than 90% of US domestic pumps). Always insist on a '3 wire pump'. The starters for these pumps need to be modified according to the manufactures specifications. This modification requires a $20 part and ten minutes to install. Any reputable pump company can facilitate this. Find one that doesn't hem and haw about doing this set up the proper way. After the appropriate pump is placed a simple transformer is installed to adjust voltages for the pump. This method does require 'inverted 240' as you mention. This is how we handle 99% of our pumping.

Our general design guideline is to wire the home in the typical manner. To use AC from an inverter. There are a few minor suggestions we make to the person wiring the home in order to reduce 'phantom loads'. Don't overlook the load management aspect of the system. Real efficiencies and operational performance can be achieved by good design and selection of appliances, lighting, heating cooling methods, etc. Patrick Osborne, Great Plains Power, 1221 Welch St., Golden CO 80401, Phone 303-239-9963, Fax 303-233-1454 e-mail: gpsolar@home.com

Q#15. (April 2001) I am just learning about solar power. I want to use solar power to run a water pump, 12 volt R-V pump to fill a pressure tank from a cistern and to run a sound system. I will appreciate any information on names of products, size and number of solar panels I will need, number and type of batteries and where I can buy such equipment. I am located in the Denver area and the cabin is north of Craig, Colorado. The use is at a cabin that is used in summer only, two to three people, two to three days a week, maximum. Thanks in advance for your help. Dave, e-mail: storhaug@gateway.net

A#15. (April 2001) There are many fine manufactures of solar panels. Any of the major brands will give good service and have guarantees. The type of battery most often used is a 'wet cell', lead acid. This is sometimes a 'golf cart battery' or a 'boat trolling battery'. Deep cycle is the term used for these kinds of batteries.

How much you need always depends on how much you use. (water and radio) I expect that about 100 watts of solar panel peak production capacity and 200 to 500 amp hours of battery would suffice for your intended use. (12VDC system voltage)

These items are available through our firm or other CoSEIA dealers across the state. Patrick Osborne, Great Plains Power, 1221 Welch St., Golden CO 80401, Phone 303-239-9963, Fax 303-233-1454 e-mail: gpsolar@home.com

A#15. (May 2001) Dave, here are some additional considerations. 1. We need more info - specifically what wattage of pump (Feet of head, etc.) and stereo (Features, channels, etc.).
2. Stereo should not have a digital clock or remote control auto-on feature (low wattage pirate loads that keep an inverter on).
3. Battery bank will require routine (monthly?) maintenance unless disconnected for the 7+ months not used.
4. If disconnected, battery level will have to be evaluated and topped off every first use of the year - could be some serious time of no use depending on weather and intensity. I'd pull the batteries the last trip of the season if physically reasonable.
5. If this is truly only used for less than 12 days/month 5 months a year, the system will be a very expensive one per kWh generated, but add some nice amenities to a camping cabin. Thom W. Johnson, RAD Energy Systems (303)489-2774 cell, 2922 So. Depew St., Denver, CO 80227

Q#16. (May 2001) Any idea how much it would cost for a system to heat up my indoor pool? The
pool is about 40' x 20' and averages about 6' deep. The water remains at about 62 degrees with the cover in place. I'd like it to be about 80 degrees, but don't like paying about $12 per day for the natural gas heater. Patrick, Broomfield, CO, e-mail: zootyp@aol.com

A#16. (May 2001) I would have Patrick run the pool up to 80°F with the gas for about two weeks. This would give the ground around the pool a chance to heat up. Then find out how much the pool temperature drops in one day without any heat being added. Knowing the gallons in the pool, it would then be easy to find out how much energy he needs in one day. From the F-Chart the system could then be sized. I figure that with the current gas rates each square foot of solar collect, with a good design like Novan, replaces about $5.00 worth of gas a year. That savings would be higher heating a swimming pool since the collectors are running cooler than average. $12 a day translates into about $4,300 a year. My guess is he would need at least 500 square feet of collector and depending on the system configuration the system would cost anywhere from $16,000 to $20,000 depending on how hard it would be to locate used collectors. If Patrick took the time to locate and buy used collectors he could save some money. Even if he spent $20,000 the payback is less than six years, a very good return on investment. Bill the Solar Man, e-mail: solarteck@aol.com

Q#17. (June 2001) I have a 1350 sq. ft. ranch house in Fruita, Co. and am considering an investment in solar heat and hot water. I own Asko laundry and dishwashing appliances that heat their own water so my domestic supply only needs to be shower temperature. At present I have an old A.O.Smith gas water heater and a Burnham boiler. Everything works fine but I would be interested in capital improvements now that could provide long term savings. As I near retirement age, I am attempting to Minnie the monthly cost of maintaining my household. The house was built in 1983 and 4 people live in it. What's my best and most cost effective investment? -TAC- e-mail: tkse@home.com

A#17. (July 2001) Tom, Solar Domestic Hot Water System with replacement tank and backup could be in the $5k to $7k range (or less, depending on components, mounting conditions, etc.) We are based in Montrose, Co. and you can reach us at 1-888-786-3374 to discuss. E-mail: solar@rmi.net

Q#18. (July 2001) I am building a cabin above Leadville CO. I need to put in a PV for lighting and a well pump. I currently have a 7 kW generator for backup that is currently being used to build the cabin. Is it possible to get a 5kw per day system with two days of battery backup in a $6,000 price range? e-mail: bspecht@qwest.com

A#18. (July 2001) Bret, A 5 Kw-hr PV system with battery backup for two days would probably cost in the neighborhood of $17,000 to $22,000. This is based upon 1000 watts of PV modules, an average of 5 peak sun hours per day, and an installed cost of $17 - $22 per watt. But based upon the loads you have noted above, I don't think you need that large a system. Lighting, especially if you use CF lighting, is relative small and a well pump running for, maybe 1/2 hour per day, should not present too much of an energy load. I'd be surprised if you couldn't get by with 200 watts of PV modules. I'd suggest you go to the new Trace off-grid web site, www.traceoffgrid.com and visit their Off grid home - System sizing page. There you can determine, based upon your loads, how much energy you will need. The larger your system, the less per installed watt you will pay. But I think you could get a small system to handle the job you have describe for the $6000 that you have budgeted. I'd suggest you go to the www.coseia.org/Directory.html web site Directory page and find a CoSEIA certified PV installer that would travel to Leadville to help you out. I think the closest are in Aspen, Breckenridge, and Guffey, although you might get some of the Denver metro folks to also come to Leadville. Give it a try.
Jon Klima, Conifer Solar Consulting, Conifer CO, e-mail: klima@purplemountain

Q#19. (January 2002) I am contemplating buying a home that has electric heat. The present owners have winter electric bills approaching $300. Is there a solar heating system that I can install that will greatly reduce that number? Unfortunately, the roof slopes face east and west. George Schrader

A#19. (January 2002) George, most any solar heating system, when properly designed and installed, will go a long way in reducing the cost of electric heating. I've had solar heating in my home for about 20 years with a backup fireplace, propane fired forced air furnace, and a propane fired hot water heater. Propane is about half the cost when compared to electric heat and my yearly cost for the propane runs between $200 to $225 per year. You didn't mention where you are located so these numbers could be quite different for your location. If you can tell me your location, I can give you some contacts that might be able to help you out. Jon Klima, Conifer Solar Consulting, Conifer CO, e-mail: klima@purplemountain.net

Q#20. (January 2002) For a new house construction, I'm considering including a solar space heating system, as the house should be heated by a hot water system, not a forced air system. Could anyone give me a hint for the following questions:
1.0 Running costs for heating systems as:
1.1 solar + nat. gas
1.2 solar + propane
1.2 solar + electric
2.0 Installation costs for the most economic system of 1.0
3.0 Experienced provider of such system.
4.0 Any publication dealing with such considerations.
Facts:
3000 sq ft house, Franktown, CO on 5 acre lot, 3 bedrooms, 3 baths, 1 fan, 1 kitchen, 1 guest, 1 studio. Panels must not be on the roof, enough groundspace is available in a separate fenced area.
Thanks for the help, Lutz Vater

A#20. (January 2002) Home Power Magazine articles by Ken Olson - recent ones on solar hot water. Environmental Building News has information on solar hot water economics. Also check Canada, 1-877-722-6600 has eco info. Joanie Matranga - CORE

A#20. (January 2002) First of all, I think it is important to know what the heating requirement/heat loss of the house is in order to determine the necessary size of both the conventional and solar heating systems. From there you can accurately determine the size of boiler and/or number of solar heating panels to maintain a comfort level. A supplier in Englewood, Low Energy Systems, provides a heating system design and heat loss calculations as a free service. They will require a copy of your floor plans which need to include insulation values in the ceilings and walls, types and sizes of windows, location/elevation of the building, and the types of floor coverings planned for the room areas. A good contact there is Eric Anderson, who himself has a solar heating background. Their address/phone # is 2916 S. Fox St., Englewood, Co. 80118, (303)781-3608. Afterwards, it's a fairly simple process determining both the boiler size and the size of the solar heating system to displace fuel costs. And finally, I just want to add by saying that combining solar with radiant floor heating is, without argument, the most desirable integration due to the low temperature requirements of radiant heating. But if your intention is to combine solar with baseboard/convection heat requiring hotter than 140°F water - it is not within a working range for solar heating systems. Take care - Earl Anderson/William R. Murray & Sun, e-mail: solarmd@aol.com

Q#21. (January 2002) We are building a vacation/weekend home in South Park, CO (10K feet = very windy and very cold) that is completely off-grid and will be utilizing between 4 to 8K watts per day and want a three day storage. We will also have a propane tank. We will be up there mostly in the summer, but want to be able to go in the winter too.

Closest power is 5 miles away so a hybrid solar/wind is probably our best choice? How involved should the alternative energy company that we choose be in the design of the home? In other words, what kind of special needs do I need to consider prior to home construction? Do the modules need to be located close to the home? Where do the inverter and batteries go? If inside the house how much room do I need and where is the best place? How many modules and what kind of cost can I expect for this type of set up? Should we use a propane refrigerator, stove and direct vent gas heat? What about hot water?

What type of things can we do to make our building our home more energy efficient? We know the basics, true south windows, double glazed glass. Are logs better than stick built for energy efficiency in the type of environment? Thanks for all of your help! Regards, Steve Waldron

A#21. (January 2002) I'll repeat your questions, then answer in CAPS. "...completely off-grid and will be utilizing between 4 to 8K watts per day and want a three day storage." I'M ASSUMING YOU ARE REFERRING TO A DAILY ENERGY REQUIREMENT OF 4 TO 8 KILOWATT-HOURS PER DAY.

Closest power is 5 miles away so a hybrid solar/wind is probably our best choice? A GASOILNE GENERATOR WOULD WORK BUT THAT ISN'T VERY DESIRABLE FROM MY POINT OF VIEW. THEIR NOISE AND CONSTANT NEED FOR FULE GET OLD VERY QUICKLY. How involved should the alternative energy company that we choose be in the design of the home? THEY NEED TO BE INVOLVED ONLY TO THE POINT OF BEING SURE YOU HAVE A PLACE TO MOUNT YOUR ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT AND BATTERIES. IF YOU CHOSE TO USE ANY DC LOADS, THEY MAY NEED TO BE INVOLVED WITH THE WIRING WITHIN THE HOUSE. BUT IF YOU ARE USING ONLY 120/240 VOLT AC WITHIN THE HOME, YOU OR AN ELECTRICIAN CAN TAKE OF THAT. In other words, what kind of special needs do I need to consider prior to home construction? Do the modules need to be located close to the home? THE CLOSER THEY ARE, THE LIGHTER THE GAUGE OF WIRE WILL BE REQUIRED. THE MAIN THING HERE IS TO BE SURE THE MODULES ARE OUT OF THE SHADE, AS A MINIMUM, BETWEEN 9 A.M. TO 3 P.M. SOLAR TIME (PRETTY MUCH STANDARD TIME AROUND HERE). I'VE LOCATED MY MODULES ABOUT 35 - 40 FEET NORTH OF THE HOUSE AND USED #1 AND #2 GAUGE WIRE TO CONNECT THE ELECTRONICS, WHICH ARE LOCATED WITHIN THE GARAGE. Where do the inverter and batteries go? THESE CAN GO EITHER IN THE HOUSE, GARAGE, OR A SEPARATE BUILDING, WHATEVER YOU DESIRE. If inside the house how much room do I need and where is the best place? THE INVERTER(S) DO GIVE OFF A 60 CYCLE BUZZ/HUM. IF LOCATED IN THE HOUSE YOU NEED TO CONSIDER THIS WHEN MOUNTING THEM, I.E., DON'T USE THE WALL AS A SOUNDING BOARD. MOUNTING THIS EQUIPMENT IN THE BASEMENT IS PROBABLY THE BEST LOCATION AS LONG AS YOU CAN ACCOUNT FOR THE 60 CYCLE HUM PROBLEM, KEEP THE MODULE TO EQUIPMENT WIRES WITHIN REASONABLE SIZE, AND BE ABLE TO PROVIDE A CONDUIT (ABOUT 1 1/4") RUN TO VENT THE BATTERY BOX TO THE OUTSIDE. How many modules and what kind of cost can I expect for this type of set up? I'M JUST GUESSING, BASED UPON MY SYSTEM, THAT YOU WOULD BE LOOKING AT ABOUT 800 WATTS WORTH OF MODULES AND 16 TO 20 T-105 BATTERIES. IF YOU HAVE A CONTRACTOR SUPPLY THE EQUIPMENT AND DO THE WORK FOR YOU, YOU WILL PROBABLY BE PAYING AROUND $14,000 TO $16,000 FOR SUCH A SYSTEM. I'M ONLY TALKING PVs HERE. I CAN'T GIVE YOU INFORMATION ON WIND SINCE I'VE NOT DONE ANY WIND SYSTEMS. Should we use a propane refrigerator, stove and direct vent gas heat? What about hot water? I'VE FOUND A GREATER VARIETY OF REFRIGERATORS IS AVAILABLE WITH THE STANDARD 120 VOLT AC UNITS. ON A BTU TO BTU COMPARISON BETWEEN ELECTRICAL AND PROPANE UNITS, IT TAKES THREE TIMES THE ENERGY TO DO THE SAME AMOUNT OF COOLING WHEN YOU ARE USING PROPANE, BUT ALSO, PROPANE IS CHEAPER THEN ELECTRICITY. ON THE OTHER HAND, PROPANE REFRIGERATORS ARE MORE EXPENSIVE TO BUY THEN ELECTRIC UNITS. I'VE DECIDED TO GO WITH A HIGH EFFICIENCY 18 - 19 CUBIC FEET MAYTAG ELECTRIC UNIT (HOME DEPOT HAS THESE), ALTHOUGH I'VE BEEN TOLD WHIRLPOOL HAS JUST COME OUT WITH A HIGH EFFICIENCY UNIT TOO. I'LL BE CHECKING ON THIS BEFORE I MAKE OUR FINAL PURCHASE. SUNFROST MAKES PROBABLY THE HIGHEST EFFICIENCY UNIT ON THE MARKET, BUT IT IS RATHER PRICY. ON THE OTHER HAND, I WOULD CERTAINLY RECOMMEND A PROPANE STOVE AND WATER HEATER WITH A Solar Heating PREHEATER FOR YOUR DOMESTIC HOT WATER. What type of things can we do to make our building our home more energy efficient? PLENTY OF INSULATION AND GOOD WEATHER SEALING. We know the basics, true south windows, double glazed glass. Are logs better than stick built for energy efficiency in the type of environment? REGARDLESS OF WHAT THE LOG HOME SALESPEOPLE TELL YOU, THE LOGS ARE NOT ALL THAT GREAT OF AN INSULATOR. YES, THERE IS A LOT OF MASS THERE AND YES, THEY LOOK VERY ATTRACTIVE, BUT A SIX INCH STICK BUILT WALL FILLED WITH FIBERGLASS, AND IF YOU CAN SWING AN ADDITIONAL INCH OF RIGID FOAM ON TOP OF THAT, WILL LOSE A LOT LESS HEAT THEN AN EIGHT INCH LOG WALL. HOPE THIS HELPS, Jon Klima, Conifer Solar Consulting, Conifer CO, e-mail: klima@purplemountain.net

A#21. (January 2002) Steve your questions are good ones.
1. Yes the Alternative Energy Corp. you choose should be involved from the get go.
2. They should be able to help with design, procurement, and placement of all energy products including appliances.
3. They should be experienced in all phases of energy efficient design, and installation.
4. They should be Trace factory trained, and at a minimum CoSEIA certified.
They should have at least 15 years of PV experience, with extensive hybrid experience. These should be both individual and industrial experiences.
5. They should also have a customer list to provide for reference in that area and beyond.
Jeff Brady, President of Alternative Energy Inc., phone 303-984-0399, www.altenergyinc.com

A#21. (January 2002) Hello Steve, you should have your chosen solar system installer involved in the design of the home from the beginning in order to optimize the system performance and cost effectiveness as well as efficiency. A knowledgeable system integrator will provide you with energy and cost saving choices to allow for the most energy efficient and cost efficient (they are actually one and the same) system(s) for your home. You will normally start with a
site visit and analysis along with design consultation to allow for both thermal and electrical efficient choices in the design and site selection process. Properly executed, these choices will be integrated with the home from the beginning along with infrastructure decisions (water pumping, septic, outbuildings, etc.). Our company, of course, offers these services as well as turnkey system sales and installation along with solar home design services and Solar Heating systems. Please let me know if we can be of assistance to you. We just completed a system installation south of 11 mile reservoir this fall. You may call us at 1-888-786-3374 or return e-mail me to discuss. Kerry T. Kalarney/Sundance Solar Designs solar@rmi.net

Q#22. (March 2002) I live in Evergreen, Colorado in a "mountain contemporary" which is heated primarily by electric baseboard (ouch). We supplement with propane log stoves (2). Are there any systems out there that we could use to provide supplemental (or entire!) heat for the house that won't break the bank? Even heating two vaulted areas would perhaps help. Thanks! Susie. E-mail sjarbo@aol.com

A#22. (March 2002) Solar Heating energy works very well with radiant heat. Retrofitting radiant is possible if you have a crawl space or unfinished basement. The system would also help with your domestic hot water. Any help there? Mike Tierney, e-mail: aspnsolr@rof.net

Q#23. (March 2002) We're a non-profit, affordable housing developer and are in design/development stage for a 5-unit, attached townhouse project in Denver to be sold to families making less than 80% of Area Median Income. I've won an energy efficiency grant and will be using part of the funding for solar hot water systems for each of the five homes. I'm guessing I'll need two 4'x8' panels for each of the homes (three 3-bedroom at 1200 sq. ft and two 2-bedrooms at 1000 sq. ft). Will this be enough to make substantial cuts to the utility bills? Also, I have to bring gas to my site, as it is an urban lot that has never been developed. The question is would it be smart to not bring gas to the site at all (assuming it'll cost me around 10-12K to bring gas down the street and to my structure) and do all electric utilities-that is, an electric hot water heater as back-up and then some kind of electric baseboard heat? Is there any possibility of using the solar hot water system as a kind of boiler, to bring radiant heat to the slab (the homes are two levels, with the first level on a slab 4' below grade). How about heat pumps or fan coil units on the hot water heater. Anybody out there have any ideas on how I should/could be thinking about this situation at this point? One last question: are there "off-the-shelf" hot water systems available, or will these systems need to be designed, engineered and built on a site specific basis. Thanks very much. Chris Stumpo, Northeast Denver Housing Center. e-mail: cstumpo@nedenverhousing.org.

Q#24. (April 2002) Hi. I have a Rho Sigma controller for an active solar hot water heater. I live in MA and have 3 panels on the roof and have a heat exchanger system. I have an 80 gallon tank that the solar feeds and also has an electric backup. The problem I have is that the tank overheats on sunny days. I do not know what tells the solar to start producing. Any suggestions? Is there an owner's manuel available? Do I need a bigger tank or an overflow tank? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim McHugh, e-mail: jimmcq@attbi.com

A#24. (August, 2002) Jim, I believe I have a unit like yours. It is a Rho Sigma RS 500 proportional controller. I just picked it up used and haven't connected it but I have all the docs with it. I could get you a copy if your unit is similar.

To answer your question, my documentation states that all Rho Sigma controllers "operate high temperature cut-off" functions. I believe the sensor at the tank should indicate to the controller to shut off at 140 degrees. I would check the sensors. The resistance of the sensors is about 10,000 ohms at 25 degrees C (about 77 degrees F).

You don't state if the pump turns on and off. If the unit seems to operate normally except for the cut-off, the controller may be faulty. One option may be to find a thermal switch that opens at 140 degrees and place this in series with the pump or perhaps one of the sensors. I do not know what the controller would do if one of the sensors is disconnected, so you would have to disconnect one to see if it stops the pump. The switch would have to have a high current capacity if it is used to interrupt the pump circuit. Hope this helps. Chuck Rivers

Editor's note: If a thermal switch that opens it contacts on a temperature rise is used, it can be placed in series with the collector sensor. When it reaches its set point temperature, its contacts will open. The controller will then see that as an infinitely cold collector and turn the system off.

Q#25. (May, 2002) I was wondering how good the solar panels are that are sold in swimming pool catalogs. How much of a difference in temp. can I expect? How quickly should I see a difference? Anyone out there have this? I live in northern VA and expect to run it only during the warmer months. Thanks for your feedback, Jerry. E-mail: JWCogle@email.msn.com

A#25. (May, 2002) Dear JW Cogle, Swimming pool heating is the best value in the solar energy business. In Colorado, a typical solar swimming pool heating system will pay for itself in 2 1/2 years. You can expect pool temperatures in the range of 80-85 °F during sunny weather. An insulated pool cover is recommended to help the pool retain the heat gathered during the day. Good quality solar swimming pool collectors have a ten year warranty or more. Check out the 'Solar Industries' line of pool collectors from Aquatherm Industries, Lakewood, New Jersey.

All information I am supplying refers to Colorado installations. You should contact a solar contractor in your area. He will be familiar with results you could expect in your area. Rick Hubbart, Pioneer Solar, Centennial, CO, E-mail: pioneersolar@email.msn.com

Q#26. (June, 2002) I am looking for a designer (in the Denver area) to help me get a house designed and built. We are going to use SIP's for the outside walls and I have a rough idea of what I want for a floor plan. Now I need a professional to help me get it all put together and get the blue prints done. I want a house that is very solar efficient. Does anyone know of any good designers? Thank you in advanced for any and all help. E-mail: BigBroo69@aol.com

A#26. (June, 2002) Try Greg Franta at 303 449-5226 and/or Walt Kaesler at 303 526-1068.

Q#27. (October, 2002) I have a south facing roof but I also have three large chinese elms in the
back yard. These trees completely shade my house in the summer but allow the more sun through in the winter when the leaves fall. It's really an effective natural energy saving feature. We are planning a remodel and I would like to consider adding a solar heating component however I think that at least one of the trees would have to be removed to do this. How do I
decide if there would be any value in doing this? Thanks, Jim Edwards, Boulder, CO

Q#28. (December, 2002) I recently purchased a used closed loop solar hot water system. The brand is "Western Solar Products from Fort Collins, Co". This company is no longer listed and I assume it is out of business. The controller unit (Digital Diagnostic controller, model WD00R) has all the hardware but is missing the electronic components. My questions are: is this unit still available?, will other control units work?, how do I find these units? The parts I have are:
6 3X6 flat-plate panels
1 82 gal storage tank with electric backup element
2 Myson solarvector S3 heat exchangers
The controller unit has the expansion tank, valves, pop offs and pumps.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. John & Sherri, cachend@drtel.net

A#28. (December, 2002) To the best of my knowledge, this unit is available only through the used equipment market. If the electronic controller is defective your best bet is to get either a new Goldline GL-30 (made by Independent Energy) or some other used/rebuilt equivalent unit. The WD00R you refer too is listed as a domestic hot water controller. It has a lot of bells and whistles that you really don't need. The Western Solar Products line of controllers are difficult to troubleshoot and repair so I feel going the replacement route would be the best choice. If you do get one of the Goldline controllers, you can use the same 10 K ohm temperature sensors that the Western Solar Products controller used. You will need a little bit in the line of additional control logic/equipment in order to deliver heat to the Myson units, but that should be no big deal for a qualified solar technician. You should be able to find someone close to you (assuming you live in or close to Colorado) to get these parts and install them for you by going to the Membership Directory page of this web site. Jon Klima, Conifer Solar Consulting, Conifer CO, e-mail: klima@purplemountain.net

Q#29. (December, 2002) I have an existing Suncatcher hot water solar heating system in my home I bought 18 years ago. I have found one person over the years that claims to not only be an authorized service rep. but has knowledge of the original installation. I've used him over the years for servicing my system but have never been completely confident in his technical knowledge. I'd like to have someone else asses my heating system and explain to me how it works, what I can do to maintain (and do minor repairs) the system and objectively assess if my expectations for the heating system are reasonable.

I have a sense that the previous owners bought a reasonably good system and may have more panels that is required for the size house the system is in but I don't have the confidence in this one opinion to really know. The system and repair service has been troublesome enough that I'm considering scrapping it for a more conventional gas heating system. I need professional advice.

The Suncatcher system was installed in 1980 +/-, has 3-4' x 8' roof panels, 2-large (50 gal.+) storage tanks in the basement and a heat exchanger (silicone medium). Phone calls to Suncatcher in Florida and/or Alabama make me believe the system is worth keeping if it were maintained and serviced properly. Where do I go from here?

Rick, Sedalia, CO E-mail: BISNEL2@aol.com

A#29. (December, 2002) To my knowledge, Suncatcher is no longer in the business of manufacturing Solar Heating systems. All of the systems installed in Colorado are long out of warranty so there is no 'factory authorized service representative'. There are a handful of companies in the metro area who can service your system. Pioneer Solar can check out and asses your solar DHW and space heating system and explain how it works. We have found that customers who take an interest in their systems tend to find small problems before they become large, more expensive problems.

Suncatcher's typical flat plate collectors were approximately 3' x 12'. You probably have two 80-gallon or 120-gallon solar storage tanks. There is a sticker on the side of the tank that gives the size in gallons just like on a water heater.

Solar is normally not intended to do 100% heating of your home in Colorado. It is an auxiliary system that is normally zoned to heat specific areas. In Colorado, you always need a backup heating system. Suncatcher has a unique space heating control system. After the solar is depleated, you can opt to have your water heater provide heat through the fan-coil convectors.

Please feel free to call Pioneer Solar to schedule an appointment. Our phone number is 303-770-2419 and we are currently about 7-10 days out on work. Pioneer Solar can asses your system, walk you through the system operation and give you a written quote if repairs are necessary. Rick Hubbart, Pioneer Solar

Q#30. (January, 2003) A friend has offered me 3 Novan Energy Optima 98 solar panels (approx. 3' x 8') for our house in northern New Mexico (alt. 7,700). The house is oriented due SW. I would like to use them to provide DHW and possibly heat a future spa. I wish to install the system myself with more used equipment. Can I test the panels to see if are any good? Are three panels adequate (3 baths, 4 people, propane backup)? Are there any good manuals out there for sizing pumps, heat exchanger, and installation specifics? Finally, is any information still available from Novan Energy? David, E-mail: satrun@kitcarson.net

A#30. (January, 2003) Pioneer Solar is a Colorado Solar Heating contractor. I have rebuilt heat exchange modules in stock which include the heat exchanger, pumps and controls. They run $550 to $700 rebuilt. There is no need for pump sizing, etc. Simply mount the collectors as close as possible to true south. Hang the heat exchange module in the mechanical room close to the water heater. I suggest you purchase an 80-gallon electric water heater to use for a solar storage tank. Use 3/4" copper pipe (insulated) to plumb the collectors to the heat exchange module and the heat exchange module to the storage tank. Three 4'x8' collectors is sufficient for 80-gallons of DHW and a hot tub.

Check the solar collectors by air pressure testing them. Use 1" rubber expanding plugs available at hardware stores to plug three of the header ports. Make a shrader valve tester with a pressure gage and solder it to the fourth port. Pressurize the collector to approximately 60 PSI and let it sit at least two hours. The collector should not lose any pressure.

Feel free to contact us with questions at 303-770-2419. I am making a trip to El Paso February 13-17. Maybe I could drop off the equipment and look at your project if you would like. Best regards, Rick Hubbart, Pioneer Solar

Q#31. (January, 2003) Sorry for the long question but here it goes. We have a cabin/house in a remote area and have incorporated passive solar into the design which keeps the building unheated at about 30°F plus in winter. I have bought 4 used 3'x8' solar panels to install as a source of the solar space heating where I wanted to use the radiators in the cabin's main level and then in the basement to possibly raise the temperature of the house 5-10 degrees. The questions are:
1. I can place the panels diagonally on the side of the house so that the top of them would be resting against the wall just below windows on the main level, the bottom would be about 3' below the basement ceiling. Could I run the pipes right through the wall under the windows and have them going into the first radiator, then go about 25" into the bathroom and have another radiator there, then maybe another 15 feet and a radiator in the kitchen and then down into the basement and 2-3 radiators there on the way back to the solar panels?
2. Could this system work if there was no storage tank, just the closed loop with an expansion tank in it?
3. Will it work on the principle of gravity feed or would I have to use a pump, and if so, any suggestions on the type (we have 110V out of PV, but we shut down the system when we leave for 2-3 weeks, so maybe I could use a small 12V pump that I could run off the 12V battery?) I realize that it would heat the house during sunny days, but would not do so at night and on cloudy days, but I think that with the house now doing relatively fine without any heat, if it were regularly kept heated during sunny days it would be warmer and could survive colder periods with a bit higher temperature inside. Oh, and we wanted to use antifreeze or silicon oil to have it completely separate from the rest of the house's plumbing.
Thanks for your help. Tad, E-mail: tmenert@webaccess.net

A#31. (January, 2003) I have never seen a system done as you describe. If you were to give it a try, you can buy a 12 VDC pump from AAA Solar in Albuquerque, NM. Natural convection in the heating loop may work but probably not to your satisfaction. Why not use the PV to run the pump while you are away?

Rather than your described system, I suggest you consider an air collector system. A small blower comes on and heats the area by warming the air. A back-flow damper stops the area from losing heat at night. The air collector can be mounted to the side of the house just like your liquid collectors. An air system will never freeze or spring a leak. You never have to change the glycol either. Air systems are very inexpensive compared to liquid collector systems.

You can purchase the system directly from AAA Solar if you intend to install it yourself or we can deliver and install the system for you. Rick Hubbart, Pioneer Solar, Centennial, CO, 303-770-2419

A#31. (January, 2003) Tad, we have been installing passive/hybrid thermal systems that employ no storage tank, only an expansion tank and run directly off of a pv panel to a dc pump, Hartell 10 HEH. Size the panel for the length of loop service and resistance to flow. The system is the same one that heats our office/shop facility in Montrose, Colorado- a 3,600 square foot building with in floor radiant heat. It moderates the temperature well because of the mass incorporated into the design. So, the answer is yes, you can do it with the system you describe as a pv direct system, though it sounds like it would be better if your system circulated through mass instead of just radiators. Feel free to call us, Sundance Solar Designs toll free at 1-888-786-3374 if you need assistance with the details. Kerry

Q#32. (January, 2003) We are about to build our first and last home in Hartsel and have pretty much settled on a 4000 sq. ft. Deltech Home (www.deltechomes.com). We have 7 acres that are on a hillside (9000') and there are no utilities at this time so we are looking into being totally off-grid. Are you aware of any problems with this kind of home as it relates to incorporating solar or wind energy? Can you suggest how to proceed in selecting the best source of energy? The home will have a southern exposure and there are no obstructions. I will be working out of the home so it will be a "smart home". Should we employ an energy consultant or a specialist in constructing mountain property? Or, should we hire a firm to design an energy efficient smart home who is familiar with this area and the energy sources available? Thanks for your help and we really enjoy your web site. Nathaniel Atkins, E-mail: nateca@gte.net

A#32. (January, 2003) You've taken a practical first step in securing a means for powering your
new home. The CoSEIA group of businesses represent reputable and practical experience with photovoltaic and wind energy systems.

The basic home style you've chosen doesn't complicate the application of a standard off grid power system. Coincidentally we have two clients with similar home construction. Our recommendations for energy efficiently focus on house wiring practices and judicious selection of appliances and heating system. Some appurtenances have strict power requirements and must be matched exactly of the power system output. None of our common recommendations appreciably increase building costs. While the extra costs are nominal the efficiency benefits are substantial. Any efficiency gained has impact on the investment required for your power production system. A power production system which incorporates solar and wind resources is very typical. We favor solar means as the more prevalent of the two sources when used in combination.

Investment in specialists for energy analysis is unusual for residential applications. The fiscal resources would probably be best invested in the power production system. We find when the general contractor for house construction is receptive to minor alterations, in the building process, extremely efficient homes can result. We feel it is crucial to finish all plans before making any commitment to the project. Our firm offers these kinds of planning services based upon our eleven years of experience. Patrick Osborne,Great Plains Power1221 Welch St., Golden CO 80401, Phone 303-239-9963, E-mail: gpsolar@attbi.com

A#32. (January, 2003) There are several CoSEIA members who would be willing to design and install a PV or solar electric system for you. Get three bids from CoSEIA PV contractors and pick the contractor who you feel will do the best job for you. Pioneer Solar would be happy to give you a bid. Best regards, Rick Hubbart, Pioneer Solar, Centennial, CO, 303 770-2419

A#32. (January, 2003) Nathaniel, Sundance Solar Designs provides sustainable whole house design and system integration services such as you describe. There are elements of passive and active design principals as well as efficiency and conservation details that will all contribute to your development of the most energy efficient (and thus lower overall system cost basis) and cost effective approach to building your home. Homes that heat, cool and power themselves,
take into account the best ways to integrate infrastructure so as to achieve the best and least net energy input requirements. Sustainable design criteria such as proper strategic balancing and placement of thermal mass with glazing, envelope and insulation details as well as support systems for water pumping, site integration, heating, cooling and power systems all play a part in achieving the goals you speak off. We have been providing these services for over 20 years and continue to do so with the idea that the most energy efficient structures are also the most cost effective operationally in the long run. The last three homes we provided design and project management services to, as well as systems design and installation services, came in at the $ 90/sf to $ 120/sf range (though these cost appear to be more driven by the owners preferences than the concepts themselves, each home is a reflection of the people involved in the design decisions), so it does not necessarily mean that the costs of building the homes themselves is necessarily higher than those of a "conventional" home. We will be glad to discuss your project with you if you wish. You may call toll free 1-888-SUN DESIGN (786-3374) if you wish to do so and I will provide references upon request. Kerry T. Kalarney/ Sundance Solar Designs

Q#33. (January, 2003) Do you have a web site or name of a company that sells a solar panel roof that looks like the now popular corrugated metal roofs? Thank you. Carol Clyne, E-mail: carol@yesdurango.com

A#33. (January, 2003) We sell Uni-Solar thin-film technology products. Uni-Solar products include PV shingles, PV laminate and PV Standing Seam panels. The Standing Seam panels look like a metal roof. For more, see Uni-Solar standing seam PV. You can find some more information at our web site at www.burnhambeck.com. Thanks, Clara (Sam) Burnham.
Burnham-Beck & Sun, Fort Collins, CO 80524-1507, Phone: 970-482-6924 FAX: 970-482-6926, E-mail: BurnhamBeckSun@aol.com.

Q#34. (March, 2003) My parents just bought a house that has solar panels on the roof and a wall unit that says Myson Solarvector. I do not know anything about this unit. I need to learn everything. Can you help? Joanne Collins, Hampshire, IL 60140, 847-683-1136, E-mail: Ladygreedy@aol.com

A#34. (March, 2003) Joanne, I'll send you a copy of the Myson Installation and Operating Instructions for the Model Super II. Jon Klima, Conifer Solar Consulting, Conifer CO, e-mail: klima@purplemountain.net

Q#35. (March, 2003) Can anyone tell me what governmental incentives (loans, tax reductions, etc) are offered for home owners considering solar electric power and hot water heating in Colorado? Also, what are the possibilities of selling excess electrical power to the local rip off power supplier - Xcel Energy? Doug Weers, Denver, Colo. E-mail: dweers@yahoo.com

A#35. (March, 2003) Doug, there seems to be some confusion/question whether or not Xcel is still offering net metering. If they are, the hoops that one needs to jump through are getting to be more stringent. Mark Boetcher (sp?) (phone # ?) or Andy Sulkko 303 294-2554 are probably the people at Xcel that you need to talk with about this. As far as governmental incentives are concerned, go to www.dsireusa.org. This is the Database of State Incentives for Renewable Energy web site and should give you anything that Colorado (or any other state) has at this date.
Jon Klima, Conifer Solar Consulting, Conifer CO, e-mail: klima@purplemountain.net

Q#36. (March, 2003) Hi. My domestic hot water tank needs to have the dip tube changed. Can anyone tell me the safest way to do this? Thanks, John. e-mail: spikey2@telusplanet.net.

A#36. (March, 2003) Hi John, Just last week I replaced 2 dip tubes on a two tank solar heating system. When there is a complaint of the system running after dark, and yet the controller, sensors and pumps check out then it's time to inspect/replace dip tubes. Providing there is at least a couple of inches of the pipe stubbing up above the tank top, then using a pipe wrench is the best approach (after having shut the water off and relieving pressure at a fixture) I have found. Only in the worst case have I been forced to disconnect the fittings at the tank top to remove the lid piece for better purchase of the nipple in question. Either way, it's in your best interest to have a nipple/dip tube comparable in size for complete replacement since there's a good chance the nipple will be damaged in the process of removing it.
Regarding the dhw tank dip tube -same rules apply. Shut off water after isolating cold inlet side of water heater. If solar tank is present and taller than water heater, it may be necessary to drain solar tank to below level of top water heater to prevent solar tank from siphoning to top of water heater. In any case it is sometimes helpful to have two pipe wrenches for this work - one to hold on to the hot side to support loosening the cold side nipple. A second pair of hands is always nice when wrestling a smaller tank. Take care. Earl Anderson, e-mail: solarmd@aol.com.

A#36. (April, 2003) Hi John, to replace a storage tank dip tube, start by unplugging the solar system. Shut off the water to the house and let the pressure off the system. Drain down the storage tank at the drain valve until you believe the water level is below the top of the storage tank. Undo the union or cut the copper pipe on the tank penetration containing the dip tube. Replace the dip tube. Reassemble the storage tank in reverse order. Rick Hubbart, Pioneer Solar Centennial, CO, 303 770-2419.

Q#37. (April, 2003) I have raw land property in the Wet Mountains (Huerfano County) near
Westcliffe, about 5 miles off the grid. Great 360 degree hilltop for solar and near constant wind off the valley. I have been searching for a solar modular house that I can get financed as a second home. Problem appears to be that most of the literature about modular solar is 7 years old...what happened to that idea. A modular off the grid solar/wind with passive solar and energy efficient appliances would appear to be the answer I need. I would also be interested in any H2 solutions that people have built that combine wind or solar electrolysis to create hydrogen and store for fuel cells? Michael Terpening, VP Systems Analysis, CMS HealthIntegrated, Phone 719 684-7856, e-mail: mterpening@cmshealthcare.com.

A#37. (April, 2003) Michael, we just might have what you are looking for. You might call us the one stop solar store since we provide design and construction of passive solar of homes, remote power systems, energy efficient appliances, and Solar Heating systems. We are also just now in the process of developing passive solar designs using modular homes. Our most promising design concept for conventional housing is what we call the vented slab. You can learn more
about our design policies, the vented slab concept, and remote power by visiting www.rockymtsolar.com and going to Passive Solar Homes, then Articles, and Remote Power Systems, then Solar Electric and Wind Systems. The web site is under construction, but we do have some information up.

There is nothing yet on passive solar modular home packages on our web page. We are just now in the process of deciding which modular home supplier to buy from. Do you know of a modular home supplier who provides walls containing closed cell foam?

We have located a modular home supplier who is willing to vary the amount of glass on the various walls. So our plan is to combine an inexpensive but fairly well insulated modular home with a vented slab, or on a vented slab basement. Just this week I spoke by phone with the inventor of the vented slab, James Kachadorian, about these ideas and he was rather interested. He has for years argued that the vented slab concept was not likely to work well in a house with a basement. But after talking with me he realized, I think, that he could have been wrong. He was thinking that when solar heat storage is not directly a part of the living space it does not work well. Since I have knowledge of, and experience with, active Solar Heating systems I pointed out to him that heat storage that is not within the living space frequently works just fine except that it usually costs too much. But the vented slab concept solves the problem of the cost
of thermal storage in a passive solar home, and in my opinion even when the vented slab is the basement floor.

Actually on a modular home I think the vented slab would in many ways work best on a basement since a wooden floor is already part of a modular home. You might want to pick up the inventor's book. The book is The Passive Solar House: Using Solar Design to Heat & Cool Your Home by James Kachadorian. The use of the basement would actually add even more thermal storage AND more living space at very little cost. So I think I might be on to something by combining the vented slab concept with a modular home on a basement, maybe even when there is no basement. The vented slab concept was not well known until recently probably because Kachadorian had a patent on it.

I am not familiar with articles from the past on solar modular homes. The federal government and NREL have been promoting a Zero Energy House that sounds similar possibly to what you are describing, except that all of their examples are in warm climates like Florida. NREL also has a folder called How To Build A Better Home that, come to think of it, does have a few paragraphs about passive solar modular homes. However the only thermal storage they talk about is tiled floors. Yuk!

I came up with this idea of combining passive solar with a modular home on my own after teaching a workshop on passive solar homes at the Colorado Springs Environmental Center. I have been looking at various passive solar design ideas for years and this lead me to the concept of the vented slab. But many people can not afford, or do not want to pay for, a custom designed home. Since I am interested in seeing solar become more main stream I recently started trying to combine the vented slab with the less expensive modular homes.

We are not too terribly far from you. We are NW of Canon City. We even built a straw bale house near Westcliffe several years ago.

Have you read the Phoenix Project by Harry Braun and the Hydrogen Economy by Jeremy Rifkin? Sounds like we have a lot of common interests. At RMSI one of our main goals is to help people become more self-sufficient in every way including transportation. Braun is in favor of converting conventional vehicles to run on hydrogen. He has some very interesting arguments. Amory Lovins says that fuel cells have had problems with membrane durability, and that it will probably be at least three more years before the problems are solved. He and I were talking in reference to fuel cells used to generate electricity in homes and businesses. But I would think that the membrane problem would probably exist in any fuel cell including automotive fuel cells. Lotus, President, RMSI, Phone: 719 687-1002, e-mail: rmsi@starband.net

A#37. (April, 2003) Hi Michael, I would like to let you know who and where we are. Our company, All Solar Inc., is located in Penrose, CO approx. 45min. from Westcliffe. We offer pv, wind, thermal, water pumping, and hybrid systems. We also specialize in off-grid energy efficient homes. We can assist you in sizing an off grid system to suite your needs as well as heating your home with an active system is desired. Feel free to contact us with any questions and or comments. Regards, Jeremy Rodriguez, All Solar Inc., Penrose, CO 81240, Phone: 719 372-3808, 1-800-499-4055, web site: www.asolarelectric.com

A#37. (April, 2003) Michael, you can find information on this subject at DOE's Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Clearinghouse, 1-800-363-3732. David Warner, NREL.

A#37. (April, 2003) Michael, there is a modular solar house in Boulder on the CU campus in back of the Benson Earthsciences building. This was the solar decathlon house constructed by CU engineering and architectural students (with some professional help) last summer. It was disassembled (which was relatively easy to do since it is modular) and trucked to Wash, D.C. at the end of the summer where they competed in the DOE sponsored Solar Decathlon competition
against numerous other universities. The CU house won the competition. The house is completely self sustaining. They still open it occasionally for tours, etc. The plan is to sell it by the end of this summer (that was the last info I had a couple of months ago). If you log onto the website http://solar.colorado.edu/ most of the information you need is there including pictures of the house, the materials used, etc. One of the graduate students you could contact (Zeke Yewdall) would be able to give you a lot more info on it if you are interested. His email is zyewdall@yahoo.com. With regard to your question about hydrogen and fuel cells you could go the the "Hydrogen Now" website (www.hydrogennow.org) there is a ton of information on this plus links to a lot more info. Hope this is of some help. Monty Villere, Pres., Photon Electric, Inc. Monument, CO 80132, e-mail: montyvil@aol.com.

A#37. (April, 2003) Hi Michael, Sounds like a great location for using solar and wind. I don't know of much for modular solar homes. I would suggest the monolithic dome company (www.monolithic.com) and American Ingenuity Domes (www.aidomes.com). These are both highly insulated foam and concrete domes instead of the leaky wooden ones built in the '70s. Also you might try SIP pros LLC, from Layfayette, CO (t_texas@MSN.com, Tom Hildreth, owner), or any of the companies listed under that structural insulated panel association (www.sips.org). None of these are solar homes per se, but are all are supersinulated kit houses.

As far as hydrogen, the technology is just not commercially available yet -- it is technically available, and if you are a university or industry researcher, you can get it. But the average person can't just go out and buy one, and even if you could, the prices make PV look inexpensive. If anyone knows otherwise, I'd like to know about what products are available. Also hydrogen electrolyzing/fuel cells for storage of energy has pretty low efficiency -- round trip of around 50%, compared to at least 75-85% for batteries. With the great year round solar and wind resources we have in Colorado, I would not recommend hydrogen as a storage medium. Zeke Yewdall, Renewable Energy Consultant, 838 19th Street, Boulder, CO 80302, e-mail: zyewdall@yahoo.com.

Q#38. (April, 2003) I am removing a Novan hot water solar system from my home. Before I try and remove the panels from the side of my house, I wanted to have some estimate of how heavy they are. They are approx. 4'x10'. Secondly, I will have two panels, a storage tank, and a broken heat exchanger available for free. Is there someone who would want this equipment? E-mail: Daniel.Cooley@colorado.edu.

A#38. (May, 2003) Daniel, Novan 4'x10' collectors each weigh 156# with a 1.5 ga. fluid capacity. I personally am not aware of anyone who might be interested in used panels and peripheral equipment. J. Iredell Smith. Wheat Ridge Solar.

A#38. (May, 2003) Hi Daniel, Novan 4' x 10's are 200 lbs each approximately. Quite often we use a boom truck. The storage tank should be recycled at a metal recycler such as Newell recycling in Denver. We can't resell it because there is no way to tell what shape it is in. You say the heat exchanger is broken. What is wrong with it? Does it leak? Is a circulator burned out. Is the controller not working? The heat exchange module may or may not be worth something. Do the collectors leak? Where are you located? Best regards, Rick Hubbart Pioneer Solar, 303-770-2419, E-mail: pioneersolar2@email.msn.com

Q#39. (May, 2003) I purchased a home with Novan 4 x 8 collector panels. I estimate the solar equipment and Solar storage tank to be 20+ years old. I am in the process of removing the existing solar system. In the collectors, there is a yellow oily fluid which I have been told is equivalent to automobile antifreeze. Is this correct, or are there other toxic substances in the fluid? If it is antifreeze, I can recycle this material at my local automotive repair shop. I appreciate your help, and will dispose of the collector fluid appropriately. Regards, dalealbright@earthlink.net

A#39. (May, 2003) The yellow oily fluid used as a heat transfer fluid certainly sounds like bray oil. This was used in a lot of Novan systems during the early to mid 80's until they developed their own heat transfer fluid called Novaflow^®. Glycols have a "slimy" or slippery feel and ethylene glycol (antifreeze) usually smells like a car radiator and is very toxic. Bray oil is non-toxic and theoretically bio-degradable. J. Iredell Smith. Wheat Ridge Solar.

A#39. (May, 2003) Hi Dale, the yellow antifreeze is probably Bray oil 888. It is a carbon based oil antifreeze. I doubt the local Checker Auto will want to mix it with 10W40. Other companies in the metro area will recycle it. It is classified as non-toxic. Check your Yellow Pages. It could also be non-toxic propylene glycol. I taste a very small amount on my tongue. If it's glycol, it will taste sweet. If it's green in color at all, it is probably ethylene glycol and is toxic. Find an automotive fluids recycler. If it tastes oily, it's bray oil (see above). Rick Hubbart, Pioneer Solar, 303-770-2419, E-mail: pioneersolar2@email.msn.com

A#39. (May, 2003) IF THE FLUID IS WATER SOLUBLE IT IS MOST LIKELY PROPYLENE GLYCOL. IF NOT, IT IS MOST LIKELY SILICONE. SOME SYSTEMS USED BRAY OIL, BUT THIS IS DARK IN COLOR AND A HYDROCARBON PRODUCT. LARRY FINN, E-MAIL: larryfinn@msn.com.

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Q#40. (September, 2003) Sir/Madam: I recently moved to my current residence, so know very little of this house's history. It is equipped with a closed-loop(?) solar hot water system. The heat exchanger is a NOVAN unit, and the expansion tank has a prominent label reading NOVAN FXB1000-D Optimizer. The system is an auxiliary heating system as the house also has an electric hot water heater.
After much uncertainty, observation and a little measurement, I have concluded that the solar heat is not contributing to the heated hot water reserve at all. First, I dismantled the circulating pump for the potable portion of the system. The rotor on this unit was completely froze up, so I ordered a new circulating pump - a TACO 006 unit. After installing the new circulator, I discovered that the water in the potable side of the system was still not circulating. so, after some extensive messing around, I have concluded that the potable circuit within the heat-exchanger is blocked. (Our water here has a high mineral content, and the house had sat empty for nearly a year.) I am now as certain as possible that I need to replace the heat-exchanger, but am not certain how much of it is included as part of the "FXB1000-D Optimizer" unit.
To save some corresponding time, I will briefly describe the set-up here and perhaps you can give me your opinion whether one of the used/rebuilt units which are advertised on this site are adequate.
The heat-exchanger is a double-walled copper configuration with one-half inch copper tubing used as the potable water conduit. The solar-heated fluid (which I believe to be glycol-water solution) is circulated around the outside of the potable water tubing in three-quarter inch copper tubing and is then routed to a two(?) gallon expansion tank and then is pumped with a cast-iron pump which I cannot identify (no markings) to the roof-mounted solar collection arrays. This circuit is independent from the potable water circuit which is circulated by a bronze TACO circulator thru the heat-exchanger to an 80-gallon hot water holding tank.
My question is - does the used/rebuilt units include all of the above described hardware (heat-exchanger, expansion tank, glycol circulator pump, and potable circulator pump, and electric control unit)?
Also, can you give me advise on how to drain and refill the glycol circuit. I guess one way would be to drain the existing fluid, then refill by disconnecting a fitting on the roof and pouring fluid downward, then bleeding the remaining air while running the circulating pump. Also, I don't know the grade/type of glycol recommended, or the correct proportions of glycol and water.
Hope you can help - Jim Walls, jwalls@kanab.net

A#40. (September, 2003) Mr. Walls, I am very familiar with these systems and can help you out. I can either fix it for you or sell you the parts to fix it yourself. Typically, if the heat exchanger needs to be replaced, I would only replace the heat exchanger and replumb the old components (pumps, expansion tank and controller) to the new heat exchanger. Please call me on the phone and we can discuss your solar system. Daimon Vilppu, Industrial Solar Technology Corp. 303-279-8108.

Q#41. (June, 2005) I'm in the preliminary design stages for a new home in the Boulder Colorado area. I would very much like to utilize a PV system. With snow fall occuring several months during the year, how well will the system hold up under adverse weather conditions? Compatible with an inverter, batteries, etc. for introducing excess power into the utility's grid?

A#41. (June, 2005) From a durability standpoint, PV's stand up very well to adverse weather.  I have seen them survive 8 foot snowfalls in Rollinsville without effect.  Just recently I did the 20 year checkup on a system in eastern Washington, which is alot snowier climate than Boulder, and we found the modules to be functioning like new. Almost all of the modules have a 25 year warrantee now.  The Unisolar technology (both the peel and stick, and their modules) are a little different than most, but from what I've seen, I expect them to hold up as well.  They have the added advantage of not having any glass, which can be good in areas with hail larger than 1" (the largest size the glass modules are tested for), or possibility of vandalism.  I've seen the modules continue working after blowing off the roof and tumbling down the hill, acquiring several dents in the module surface in the process.  Of course, this is not recommended -- if it had been one of my systems, I would have secured it to the roof better.  One drawback of the unisolar modules or roofing is that it requires about twice the roof area as the normal glass modules for the same amount of power.

The issue of providing power during snowy weather is a separate issue.  Obviously, when covered with snow, the PV system will not be producing much power. If you have an off grid system, it's important to have them tilted sufficiently to shed the snow quickly when the sun comes out.  I usually recommend 45 degree slope, or steeper.  For the peel and stick Unisolar, this means the south facing roof of the house needs to be a 45 degree gable roof or similar.   I've seen
arrangements designed for someone to clean the modules with a broom or such, but I don't recommend this -- more work than most people are willing to do regularly. Colorado is actually a more important climate to make sure they shed the snow quickly than other snowy climates, because it is so sunny here.  In Washington, it didn't matter much if the snow stayed on for several days after a snowfall, because there was no sun anyway, but in Colorado, the rapidly
alternating snowy and sunny weather means that you want the panels clear as soon as possible after snowfall, in order to take advantage of the sun before the next storm comes through.  The PV modules actually perform better under very cold conditions (10 to 15% higher power output on a sunny winter day than on an equally sunny summer day). If you have a grid tied system, it is less important, as you will just use power from the grid till the panels clear of snow, and
the lower slope will generate more power during the summer to make up for it.

All of the modules, unisolar and everything else, are compatible with both battery based stand alone systems, and systems with grid connection and buying/selling.  Currently, Xcel (which will most likely by your utility if you are in Boulder county) has finally upgraded their interconnection standards to include the latest technology in inverters, and for systems under 10kW, a standard 300,000 homeowners liability policy will cover the insurance requirements for interconnection.  There is still discussion over whether they will actually allow net metering (where they pay the same amount for the power you sell them as the power you buy from them), or will require a two meter system in which they buy power during the day at a cheap price, and sell it back at night at a much higher price.  The colorado PUC is also having hearings in July which will determine whether there will be possible rebates from Xcel to install grid connected PV systems.

Hope this helps. Zeke Yewdall, Solar Energy Consultant, PO Box 18946, Boulder, CO 80308

A#41. (June, 2005) The Unisolar Peel-n-Stick product works really well if you were planning on a standing seam metal roof anyways.  It allows you to do away with additional mounting structures and the subsequent holes in the roof.  All PV material, whether this UniSolar product or the framed rigid crystalline type, is designed to be out in the weather for decades.  With the Boulder areas sunny winters, you will not have any problem with snow accumulation, as PV material is quite slick and the first hint of sun will generally dump the snow. It is compatable with the grid inter-tie inverters as well.  Batteries are not needed, unless you have a desire for back up power during grid failure.  You can configure your system either way. One of the only drawbacks of the UniSolar product is the square footage of roof space required.  It is roughly 1/2 as space efficient per watt produced.  So you would need double the square footage on the roof given over to the PV material. Namaste Solar Electric is Boulder-based and experienced in this urban Grid Tie market.  We'd be happy to work with you on the design and implementation of your project.

Best Regards, Wes Kennedy, V-P, Sales and Engineering, Namaste Solar Electric, 303-447-0300, www.namastesolar.com

A#41. (June, 2005 ) As with any PV system, the Uni-Solar Peel and Stick System will work in Colorado. 

1 - In cases of extreme snow on the roof [ i.e. panels], no power will be produced.   However, most snow does not stay on the roof for great lengths of time, perhaps, two or three days.  Even on cloudy days, some power is produced.

2 - Uni-Solar can be used strictly as a Grid Tied system.  This would include an inverter.  This system can be used with batteries to provide limited back-up power in case the Grid does go down.

It would be helpful if you would clarify why you wish to use PV as a power source.  How many kw are you planning on using?  What type of appliances are being used?  Does the Grid go down in that area?  Does the slope of the roof face south?  Is there an area planned for an equipment room?  Is there a limit on the cost of the system that you plan on installing?

Do hope that this has been of some assistance.  Donna, Thames Solar Electric

A#41. (June, 2005 ) ..55 degrees is optimal for snowshedding but this tilt has a summer compromise for power production. For the most juice yearly go with 40 degrees up from horizontal. For a grid tied system in Boulder where it might snow a few days in six or seven months, it might be choice to have a way to clear the modules of snow (e.g. extenda-squeegie) and go for yearly production. Flush mount is the way to go if you can design a decent pitch.

And of course, batteries should go in a conditioned space, or at the very least, well shielded indoors.

An inverter needs to be taken care of to some degree and operates best when cool. Some consideration should be made to keep the extreme temperatures as well as dust away from inverters for longevity sake.

As for Net-metering.There is no advantage to producing more than you use. Currently, any excess that remains on the bill after a year will be settled on a less than retail rate, as reimbursement. So, make what you need and get what you pay for.

Outback Power is a great battery based inter-tie inverter than boasts 91% efficiency.

In good faith, Jeremy Taylor, Project Manager, Colorado SolarWorks, 1501 Lee Hill Dr. #15, Boulder , CO 80304 office: (303) 444-6564, voice: (303) 382-3416, mobile: (303) 901-4929, fax: (303) 415-9355,www.sunoneness.com -or- www.ColoradoSolarWorks.com

Q#42. (April, 2007) I live in Xenia Ohio and have a older 4 panel Suncatcher system with 2 80 gallon storage tanks. This year the C-100 control panel failed because of shorted out silicone fluid pumps. I will have to replace both pumps and the control panel to repair it. My question is, where do I buy the silicone fluid for it, can I reuse the fluid it it? I am sure it is 25 years old would the fluid still be good? How much fluid does it hold? What special tools do I need to refill the system and purge the air out it once I replace the pumps?
Please respond to forum@coseia.org.